All the best tourist locales require at least one pre-dawn wakeup call and Angkor Wat is no different. By 5am we were seated next to a muddy pond surrounded by giggling Korean tourists and drink sellers touting Cambodian coffee (with condensed milk) and other early morning stimulants.

A short flight later and we arrived in the seaside city of Sihanoukville, notorious by both Cambodian and Western standards. This said, the town is surrounded by beautiful tropical beaches and our home for a few days is a bungalow high up on the hill away from it all…

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